Step 1: Staple Vapor-Barrier Paper to Sub-Floor

Get the square footage of the area of your room by multiplying its length by its width. Make sure to give make allowances for extra pieces of board of around 10 to 15 percent of area’s square footage. The flooring boards need to be in the room for at least 48 hours before installation to prevent slits as it needs to adjust with the room temperature and mugginess. Give at least a 4-inch overlap on the vapor barrier paper. If the sub-flooring screeches, use a long screw to reach into the sub-floor and joist where the screech is located.

DIY hardwood floor boards should be laid perpendicular to the floor supports using solid anchors. Try to lay the boards temporarily to get right the pattern of shading and random lengths before tacking it. The first row must be nailed facing the floor supports.

Step 2: Allow for Expansion

Allow for expansion and give at least 3/8-inch slit alongside wall. The boards must be protected with a flooring air nail gun. You can probably rent this pneumatic flooring package from a home improvement rental center for about $50 a day. Be sure to get staples and nails that will fit into the particular gun you’re going to use, as there are different kinds. For instance, a Brazilian wood is 80 percent harder than an oak wood. This is something you must consider because you will have a hard time getting the nails through the tongue. There’s also a risk of missing and damaging the flooring boards. The staples will be covered up by the next piece of board that is laid because the pneumatic tool gets the staples in at a 50-degree angle through the tongue.

Step 3: Prevent Awkward Alignment

You have to be careful and properly install the boards. Consider that the nails go through the tongue every 10 to 12 inches and the groove is then tapped to ensure the boards stay and fit cozily. Reel the hardwood floor boards on at least 6 inches for you to prevent an awkward alignment of the joints. Cut the board lengthwise if the slit for the last board is thinner than the next board so that it will fit into its space.

Step 4: Nail the Baseboard in Place

Nail the baseboard in place after the last hardwood board. This DIY hardwood floor installation process will definitely give you a lifetime of contentment with its authentic beauty and pleasure. If you need assistance, contact an expert for advice.

Just want to repair your hardwood floor, check out our post entitled, “How to Repair a Hardwood Floor – DIY” for assistance.

Step 1: Pull Up the Old Tile Floor

Before laying the tile floor over an old floor, make sure to remove all baseboard moldings. Remove the moldings with extra care then set it aside where it’s safe. Have some large trash bins prepared so that you can easily dump any old floor tiles. Be careful when pulling up each piece because you don’t really know what’s underneath the old tile floor. If you find evidence of asbestos, call your environment authorities for the safe and proper disposal of it. For easier and faster ripping of tile, you can buy or rent a roofing shovel. This shovel has serrated teeth and built-in fulcrum which makes your DIY tile task more manageable. Make sure that the surface is completely free of debris. Fill in any holes.

Step 2: Prep the Floor

Make sure to mark the floor where the kitchen cabinets and island will be. You can use a chalk for marking. This way, you’ll know where to avoid putting the floor tile. You can even use cardboard templates instead of marking with chalk.

Step 3: Chalk the Tile Grid on the Floor

Before you start to lay out the new tile floor, create a floor grid using a chalk line. Lay tiles side by side and measure them with grout joints to determine the square size for the grid. Start along the longest wall. Then, make a mark the size of your tile square. Make the first chalk line the length of the first wall and mark the square from the back wall with a chalk line. After that, mark your grid points, making sure that the grid lines line up correctly across the entire floor. Doing all this makes it easier to start laying down the floor tiles.

Step 4: Lay the Porcelain Tile

After step three, apply a thin layer of thin-set mortar using the notches in the 1/4 x 3/8″ trowel to set the thickness. Make sure that the consistency of mortar is the same as mayonnaise. When putting the mortar, make sure to avoid covering the grid lines. Put a thin layer of mortar on each back of the tile and then lay the tile following the grid lines. When placing the tile, make sure to apply equal pressure with both hands. Remember that all tiles should be on the same level, square to each other and the grout lines should be even. Clean any excess gook using a damp towel or sponge.

Step 5: Cut the Floor Tiles

Use another tile or wet saw when cutting tiles to fit corners. When cutting tile using wet saw, make sure to cut it slowly. Do not put too much pressure on the saw to avoid breaking the tile. To fit small pieces of tile along a wall or in a corner, apply the thin-set to the back of the small tile pieces.

Step 6: Grout the Floor Tiles

When you’re done laying the entire tile floor, wait for about 24 hours before you start grouting. Grout is essential in any tiling task, including do-it-yourself tiling. There are many different colors of grout. So, be sure to choose a color that compliments your tile. Stir the grout mixture and make sure that its consistency is the same as mayonnaise. Make sure to use float for this job. Hold it at a 45-degree angle and then start spreading the grout across the tile. The float will then force the grout into the seams. After spreading the grout, let it set for a few minutes and then go back over it with a sponge. Don’t be too rough with the sponge as it may pull out the grout from the seams. Let the grout dry over night. The next day, you can walk on your new kitchen tile floor and enjoy your DIY porcelain kitchen tiles.