Step 1: Staple Vapor-Barrier Paper to Sub-Floor

Get the square footage of the area of your room by multiplying its length by its width. Make sure to give make allowances for extra pieces of board of around 10 to 15 percent of area’s square footage. The flooring boards need to be in the room for at least 48 hours before installation to prevent slits as it needs to adjust with the room temperature and mugginess. Give at least a 4-inch overlap on the vapor barrier paper. If the sub-flooring screeches, use a long screw to reach into the sub-floor and joist where the screech is located.

DIY hardwood floor boards should be laid perpendicular to the floor supports using solid anchors. Try to lay the boards temporarily to get right the pattern of shading and random lengths before tacking it. The first row must be nailed facing the floor supports.

Step 2: Allow for Expansion

Allow for expansion and give at least 3/8-inch slit alongside wall. The boards must be protected with a flooring air nail gun. You can probably rent this pneumatic flooring package from a home improvement rental center for about $50 a day. Be sure to get staples and nails that will fit into the particular gun you’re going to use, as there are different kinds. For instance, a Brazilian wood is 80 percent harder than an oak wood. This is something you must consider because you will have a hard time getting the nails through the tongue. There’s also a risk of missing and damaging the flooring boards. The staples will be covered up by the next piece of board that is laid because the pneumatic tool gets the staples in at a 50-degree angle through the tongue.

Step 3: Prevent Awkward Alignment

You have to be careful and properly install the boards. Consider that the nails go through the tongue every 10 to 12 inches and the groove is then tapped to ensure the boards stay and fit cozily. Reel the hardwood floor boards on at least 6 inches for you to prevent an awkward alignment of the joints. Cut the board lengthwise if the slit for the last board is thinner than the next board so that it will fit into its space.

Step 4: Nail the Baseboard in Place

Nail the baseboard in place after the last hardwood board. This DIY hardwood floor installation process will definitely give you a lifetime of contentment with its authentic beauty and pleasure. If you need assistance, contact an expert for advice.

Just want to repair your hardwood floor, check out our post entitled, “How to Repair a Hardwood Floor – DIY” for assistance.

Step 1: Pull Up the Old Tile Floor

Before laying the tile floor over an old floor, make sure to remove all baseboard moldings. Remove the moldings with extra care then set it aside where it’s safe. Have some large trash bins prepared so that you can easily dump any old floor tiles. Be careful when pulling up each piece because you don’t really know what’s underneath the old tile floor. If you find evidence of asbestos, call your environment authorities for the safe and proper disposal of it. For easier and faster ripping of tile, you can buy or rent a roofing shovel. This shovel has serrated teeth and built-in fulcrum which makes your DIY tile task more manageable. Make sure that the surface is completely free of debris. Fill in any holes.

Step 2: Prep the Floor

Make sure to mark the floor where the kitchen cabinets and island will be. You can use a chalk for marking. This way, you’ll know where to avoid putting the floor tile. You can even use cardboard templates instead of marking with chalk.

Step 3: Chalk the Tile Grid on the Floor

Before you start to lay out the new tile floor, create a floor grid using a chalk line. Lay tiles side by side and measure them with grout joints to determine the square size for the grid. Start along the longest wall. Then, make a mark the size of your tile square. Make the first chalk line the length of the first wall and mark the square from the back wall with a chalk line. After that, mark your grid points, making sure that the grid lines line up correctly across the entire floor. Doing all this makes it easier to start laying down the floor tiles.

Step 4: Lay the Porcelain Tile

After step three, apply a thin layer of thin-set mortar using the notches in the 1/4 x 3/8″ trowel to set the thickness. Make sure that the consistency of mortar is the same as mayonnaise. When putting the mortar, make sure to avoid covering the grid lines. Put a thin layer of mortar on each back of the tile and then lay the tile following the grid lines. When placing the tile, make sure to apply equal pressure with both hands. Remember that all tiles should be on the same level, square to each other and the grout lines should be even. Clean any excess gook using a damp towel or sponge.

Step 5: Cut the Floor Tiles

Use another tile or wet saw when cutting tiles to fit corners. When cutting tile using wet saw, make sure to cut it slowly. Do not put too much pressure on the saw to avoid breaking the tile. To fit small pieces of tile along a wall or in a corner, apply the thin-set to the back of the small tile pieces.

Step 6: Grout the Floor Tiles

When you’re done laying the entire tile floor, wait for about 24 hours before you start grouting. Grout is essential in any tiling task, including do-it-yourself tiling. There are many different colors of grout. So, be sure to choose a color that compliments your tile. Stir the grout mixture and make sure that its consistency is the same as mayonnaise. Make sure to use float for this job. Hold it at a 45-degree angle and then start spreading the grout across the tile. The float will then force the grout into the seams. After spreading the grout, let it set for a few minutes and then go back over it with a sponge. Don’t be too rough with the sponge as it may pull out the grout from the seams. Let the grout dry over night. The next day, you can walk on your new kitchen tile floor and enjoy your DIY porcelain kitchen tiles.

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Valve

• Locate the water shut-off valve and turn off the main water supply. It’s recommended that you start with the one that’s outside your home.

• Shut off the power to the water heater:

• the gas water heater – shut off at the gas valve

• the electric water heater – shut off at the main circuit breaker

• Drain the water heater by opening the valve and letting the water drain into a bucket.

• Open the faucets and the fixtures within the house, then go outside to open the sillcocks, or drain valves. (IE, water hose valve)

Step 2: Build an Adapter

• Adjust your compressor up to 40 psi’s to avoid the bursting of the pipes (bursting of the pipes are usually caused by air pressure).

• Connect the compressor to the outside sillcock by using an adapter (follow the DIY adapter building instructions below).

• To build an adapter:

• start a standard sillcock and wrap the threads with Teflon tape.

• add a ¾” hose thread adapter and a ½” to 3/8” coupler.

• make sure that all connections are tight.

• use slip-joint pliers or adjustable wrench in tightening the connections.

Step 3: Attach the Adapter

• Connect the adapter to the compressor hose.

• Add Teflon tape on the threaded end of the compressor first before connecting both.

• Use a wrench to tighten the connection.

• Connect the hose to the compressor and use a washing machine hose to bridge the adapter to the outside sillcock of the house.

• Hook it up to the system and blow it up to make sure that the entire system is water free.

Step 4: Pressurize the System

• After closing the valves inside the house and opening the ones on the outside, it’s time to pressurize the system.

• Turn on the compressor. Note: If the pressure won’t build up, there’s still an open valve or a broken pipe (you need to check it again or get an expert’s assistance).

• When the system is charged with air, the water heater can instantly be drained. The air will go to the cold water line and will help push the water out from the top of the tank. This water comes out quickly so make sure to let it cool for a little while before draining.

Step 5: Check the Faucets

• Note: A “draw-off” is the connection that you connect your water hose to, usually found at the bottom of the water heater tank.

• Drain the water heater by turning the draw off. Some can be turned by hand. Others require a screwdriver to turn it.

• Open the outside sillcock that is the farthest from the compressor. Keep it open until it is completely drained (only air seeps out). Then, close the valve.

• Go to each faucet inside the house and open them up. Close them after they are completely drained (only air seeps out).

• Continue this process until all the faucets in the house have been completely drained.

Other Water Heater Options

Tired of having to winterize your water heater every year? Looking for a more cost-efficient way to save money on heating water in your home? Do you know that there are options for more efficient water heating? For more information, check out of blog post entitled, “How Do Tankless Water Heaters Work?“

Materials Needed

• drywall compound

• 3/4″ plywood

• prepasted wallpaper

Tools Needed

• drop cloth or old sheets

• pliers

• flashlight

• paintbrush

• sandpaper

• utility knife

• measuring tape

• wallpaper trough

• broad knife or flat edge

• putty knife

• wallpaper brush

• seam roller

• sawhorses

• wallpaper sponge

• level

Do-It-Yourself: Hang Your Own Wallpaper

Step 1: Prepare the Area

• To make your work easier, prepare a table with plywood placed on top in different room. The table will be your work station for cutting the wallpaper into the proper sizes that you need. Remove any picture frames or other decorative items hanging on or attached to the walls. Turn off the electricity in the room at the main circuit breaker. Cover your outlets with tape. Cover your floors or carpets with drop cloth to avoid making stains while you work.

Step 2: Check for Blemishes

• Blemishes are more visible with wallpaper than paint, so try to locate them before your hanging your wallpaper. Use a flashlight pointed directly at your wall to find them. Feel the wall while searching. If you find a lump, smooth it out with sandpaper. If there’s a depression, fill it in with drywall compound.

Step 3: Prepare the Wall Surface

• Prime your walls with oil-based primer.

Step 4: Measure and Cut the Wallpaper

• Cut your wallpaper according to where you want its design pattern to meet. Make sure that you cut the wallpaper about 6 inches longer than your wall.

Step 5: Immerse the Wallpaper in Water

• Use a wallpaper tray to soak the wallpaper with lukewarm water. Soak it for about 15 seconds or until all the bubbles are out. Lay it out flat on the workstation table.

Step 6: Activate the Adhesive

• After soaking the wallpaper, “book” it. This means to fold both ends towards the middle. For easy carrying of wallpaper, you can book many times and put it in a plastic.

Step 7: Lightly Mark the Wall

• Mark the wall at a point that is 1/4″ less than the width of the wallpaper from the least noticeable corner of the room. Draw a line down the length of the wall from the mark.

Step 8: Hang the First Piece

• “Unbook” the wallpaper and paste it starting from the ceiling. Press its top portion on your ceiling and be sure that the wallpaper is properly flushed with the line, ensuing that the design pattern is correctly aligned. Don’t move it around unnecessarily. This may cause stretching, causing the seam to be out of alignment.

Step 9: Check the Corners for Wrinkles

• Wallpaper will usually get wrinkled on the top corner. If this happens, you can cut it out with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. But be very careful not to cut more than the wrinkled part.

Step 10: Smooth Out the Wallpaper

• Smooth out the wallpaper with a broad knife or a wallpaper brush. Start smoothing it from the top and work your way down. Use a sponge to remove excess glue.

Step 11: Hang the Remaining Pieces

• Hang the second piece of your wallpaper starting at the top and all the way down. Do the same routine from the previous steps until you’re finished with all the pieces. Make sure to match the design patterns of your wallpaper.

Step 12: Trim the Edges

• Trim off the top and the bottom of the wallpaper using a straightedge knife. A straightedge will press the wallpaper as tightly as possible into the corner and the knife will cut it out.

Step 13: Press the Seam Together

• Using a seam roller, press the seams of the wallpaper together. Do this when wallpaper has been up for about 15 minutes. Be sure not to press too hard. And then let your wallpaper dry and set for 24-48 hours.

]]> http://plumbingwithpex.com/diy/diy-how-to-hang-your-own-wallpaper/feed/ 0 http://plumbingwithpex.com/diy/how-to-remove-wallpaper-using-steam/ http://plumbingwithpex.com/diy/how-to-remove-wallpaper-using-steam/#comments Tue, 24 Jan 2012 20:27:16 +0000 Kiesha http://plumbingwithpex.com/?p=89159 Are you bored with your wallpaper and looking to do something new and exciting with your walls? A new look just may be what you need to bring more comfort to your rooms. But, you’ve heard horror stories about removing wallpaper and aren’t sure you can do-it-yourself. Let me tell you: It’s not that hard to turn this task into a DIY wallpaper removal project.

How should you go about removing that dirty, old,outdated wallpaper as a DIY project that could save you money? Don’t worry, removing wallpaper, DIY style, is as easy as counting 1-2-3. Below are two different ways to remove your wallpaper. The step-by-step process below is for DIY removing wallpaper using steam. For instructions on removing wallpaper using a solvent, check out our post entitled, “DIY – How to Remove Wallpaper Using a DIY Solvent.”

Items Needed for DIY Wallpaper Removal

• Screwdriver
• Wallpaper scorer or paper tiger
• Drop cloths or old sheets
• Wallpaper steamer
• Wide putty knife
• Bucket
• Dish washing liquid
• Clean sponge
• Clean towel

DIY – Removing Wallpaper Using Steam

1. Prepare the Area

• Place drops cloths or old sheets around the base of the walls you are stripping wallpaper from.

• Remove all the light switch plates and electrical outlet covers from your walls.

• Shut off the main power to the room at the main circuit breaker.

2. Perforate the Old Wallpaper

• Perforate the wallpaper using a perforating tool like a wallpaper scorer or a “Paper Tiger”. Use the perforating tool you choose to make holes in the wallpaper. These small holes will allow the steam to get into the adhesive base, loosening the wallpaper.

• Note: A perforating tool is device that has small spikes on the sides good for pricking walls. It may prick your wall surface. So, you must be very careful not to press too hard.

3. Apply Wallpaper Steamer

• Apply the steamer to the old wallpaper.

• While steaming the wallpaper, you must hold the steamer in place for a little while so that the steam penetrates more and softens the glue.

• The softer the glue gets, the easier it will be to remove the wallpaper.

• Remember: The more you steam, the less you scrape.

• Safety Note: Wallpaper steamers tend to drip hot water all over the place. So, never ever forget to wear gloves to avoid scalding and burning accidents.

4. Scrape with a Wallpaper Scraping Tool

• After steaming, the glue should be soft.

• You can now begin scraping at the seam or the edge of perforation.

• Use a scraping tool, a putty knife or a dry knife to do your DIY wallpaper scraping.

• Continue steaming and scraping until all the old wallpaper is completely removed.

5. Clean Your Walls

• Mix one tablespoon of dish washing liquid with extremely hot water.
• Using a clean sponge, wipe the walls thoroughly with the solution above. Be sure to remove all traces of the old adhesive used to hold the wallpaper in place.
• Wipe the walls with clean water to remove the dish washing liquid solution.

• Dry the walls with a clean, dry towel.

Paint Your Walls Now

Now, you can redo your walls as you wish. Add more modern, eye-catching wallpaper, border paper or even a new fresh coat of paint. For painting tips, read our article entitled, “DIY – A Beginners Guide to Interior Painting” for assistance. Found holes in your walls underneath all the old wallpaper? Wood Filler and Painter’s Putty are great for repairing holes in your walls.

Items Needed

• Latex exterior paint
• Nylon/polyester blend paintbrush
• Semi-gloss paint (for trim)
• Natural bristle paintbrush
• Angeled sash brush (for shutters)
• Plastic (for covering plants and flowers)
• Waterhose (for washing exterior of house)
• Spatula (for scraping paint)
• Sander
• Primer

Where to Begin for DIY Exterior Painting

1. The first thing you need to do is determine what areas of the exterior you will be painting. Will it be the entire house, just the trimming or only the shutters?
2. Figure out what colors you want to use, and the type of exterior paint you will paint with. You can get assistance by using recommendations from sample books provided by paint providers, such as Home Depot.

Assistance Making Up Your Mind

• If you just can’t seem to decide, buy one quart of each color you have in mind. Paint sample blotches on the exterior wall. Use these samples to compare color combinations.
• In order to keep your home’s curb appeal, be sure the colors you choose blend in with the other homes in your neigborhood.

Choosing Paint Type for DIY Painting

• Latex paint is great for exterior painting because it’s easy to clean.
• Latex paint lasts just as long as oil-based paint.
• Purchase the best latex paint in your price range. This will ensure that you don’t have to apply multiple coats, which will cost more time and money.
• Try to find a good quality semi-gloss paint for the trim of the house. It provides a shine, adding a glow to your DIY exterior paint.

Choosing Paintbrushes for DIY Painting

• Latex Paints – use paintbrushes that are made from a blend of nylon/polyester.
• Oil-based Paints – use paintbrushes made of a natural bristle.

DIY Painting Shutters

For the best results, your shutters should be removed and spray painted separately from the house. But, if you’re unable to remove the shutters, and they must be painted, follow these tips:

• Use an angled sash paintbrush to avoid getting paint places other than on the shutters.
• Try not to choose dark colors because they absorb more heat. This can warp shutters that are made of vinyl material.

Exterior Painting Preparation, Step-by-Step

1. Cover your landscape plants and flowers with plastic.
2. Clean the house’s surface thoroughly, washing off all chalk, dirt, mud and mildew that may have built up. Be sure the house is dry before continuing your DIY exterior painting project.
3. Scrape off paint that is peeling or cracking.
4. Sand and prime the areas you’ve scraped.
5. Paint the trim of the house using the semi-gloss paint you’ve chosen for your DIY painting.

• Hold the paintbrush, placing your hand where the handle and brush meet.
• Your fingertips should be on the metal section, with your wrist guiding the paintbrush.

Other Helpful Tips for DIY Exterior House Painting

• Temperature
• Exterior painting should be done when the humidity level is low.
• The outside temperature should be 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Fresh paint shouldn’t be exposed to direct sunlight. Be sure to follow the share as you paint to avoid heat blisters in your DIY painting job.
• Wet Edge
• Keep a “wet edge” by continuously overlapping the areas you’re just finished painting.
• To avoid buckling in your DIY paint job, don’t paint over an area that’s already drying.

Start Your DIY Exterior Painting Now

Now, all your prep work is complete for your DIY exterior house painting project. You’re ready to get started painting the exterior of your house. If you need assistance with your DIY painting, contact Plumbing with Pex for assistance. When you’re ready to paint the interior of your home, check out this post, “DIY – A Beginners Guide to Interior Painting” for tips.

The step-by-step process below is for DIY removing wallpaper using a DIY solvent. For instructions on removing wallpaper using steam, check out our post entitled, “DIY – How to Remove Wallpaper Using Steam.”

Items Needed for DIY Wallpaper Removal

• Drop cloths (or old sheets)
• Screwdriver
• Wallpaper scorer
• Hot water
• Fabric softener
• Spray bottle
• Wide putty knife
• Bucket
• Dish washing liquid
• Clean sponge
• Clean towel

1. Get the Room Prepared

• Place drops cloths or old sheets around the base of the walls you are stripping wallpaper from.
• Remove all the light switch plates and electrical outlet covers from your walls.
• Shut off the main power to the room at the main circuit breaker.

2. Score the Wallpaper

• Use your wallpaper scorer to make holes in the wallpaper.
• These small holes will allow the solution you are about to prepare to get into the adhesive base, loosening the wallpaper.

3. Mix Up Your Solution

• You may use one of the commercialized solutions on the market, but this is not a recommended. It’s more expensive than the well known DIY solution mix below.
• Prepare your own DIY solution by combining fabric softener and hot water in a spray bottle. They should be of equal proportions (1:1 ratio).
• Prepare the solution in smaller batches to ensure that the water stays as hot as possible.

4. Soak the Walls

• Use the solution in your spray bottle to soak the wallpaper, one section at a time.
• Only soak a portion of the wallpaper that you believe you can strip off within 15 minutes, as the solution will be dry after that time.
• Allow the soaking process to take effect for a few minutes before you start stripping the wallpaper.

5. Strip Off the Wallpaper

• Grab sections of the wallpaper from a bottom corner. Pull the wallpaper upward to remove it.
• Use a wide putty knife to help you remove the wallpaper in an upward manner.
• Continue to repeat this process until all of the wallpaper has been removed.

6. Clean Your Walls

• Mix one tablespoon of dish washing liquid with extremely hot water.
• Using a clean sponge, wipe the walls thoroughly with the solution above. Be sure to remove all traces of the old adhesive used to hold the wallpaper in place.
• Wipe the walls with clean water to remove the dish washing liquid solution.
• Dry the walls with a clean, dry towel.

Paint Your Walls Now

Now, you can redo your walls as you wish. Add more modern, eye-catching wallpaper, border paper or even a new fresh coat of paint. For painting tips, read our article entitled, “DIY – A Beginners Guide to Interior Painting” for assistance. Found holes in your walls underneath all the old wallpaper? Wood Filler and Painter’s Putty are great for repairing holes in your walls.

Needed Items

1. Measuring tape
2. Table saw
3. Wood for framing
4. Hammer
5. Nails
6. Sill board
7. Wood Filler
8. Silicone
9. Clean, old rag

Step 1: Measure and Cut the Wood

Measure the mirror on the wall. Use a measuring tape to determine the length and width of the frame that you’re planning to add to your bathroom mirror. Now using a table saw, cut the wood to the appropriate sizes based on what you have measured. Make sure to cut out some pockets or grooves for the edges of the mirror.

Step 2: Nail the Wood to the Wall

After cutting of the wood pieces for frame, nail the frame to the wall on all both sides of the mirror. Be a careful not to hit the mirror while hammering. Be sure that the groves of the trim pieces are facing down the mirror. Then, continue nailing the top and bottom of the frame.

Step 3: Trim the Wood Frame

To add additional detail to your frame, cut out and nail a sill board on the bottom edge of your frame. Make sure to cover any visible screws or nails, as it would ruin the whole beauty of your mirror. You can cover it with trim pieces that are about 3/16″ in depth. To make a false front then just use small nails. Add the final molding using trim pieces over the top and sides of the frame.

Step 4: Finish the Wood Frame

The last thing you should do with your framed mirror is add some small details to make it clean and firm. To do that, cover the visible nails with wood filler. Add a bead of silicone around the mirror for added firmness. Make sure to wipe any excess wood filler or silicone off of the wall using a clean wet rag.

Other DIY Tips for Your Mirror Frame

• When using a table saw, make sure that you really know how to use it. If not, never hesitate to ask for assistance from a DIY expert. Also, keep the table saw unplugged when not in use or when adjusting the blade and fence to avoid accidents.

• When you’re done with your frame installation, you can paint it or finish it. But. make sure that you’ve already decided what to apply before starting to avoid regrets in the end. Applying stain to the wood is simple. But, having to re-install a DIY mirror frame can be very frustrating.

For more information on adding more unique beauty to your DIY framed mirror, check out our post entitled, “DIY – A Beginners Guide to Interior Painting” on Plumbing with Pex.

DIY Tips for Bathroom Demolition

Step 1: Remove the Old Fixtures and Components

Begin by removing the old bathroom fixtures, including the bathroom mirrors. If the mirrors have been painted over, this could make it harder to remove them. You can use a tool that will help to pry the mirror off the wall, such as a flat pry bar. Carefully use it to pry the mirror starting at one end from the top. Pry it down from the top edge, then just pull it slowly to loosen.

Step 2: Remove the Vanity

First, take away the bracket(s) that are being used to hold the mirror in position. Begin the job of unhooking the connections underneath the vanity:

• Disconnect the water supply.
• Cut-off the accessibility line in the valves.
• Remove the bond towards the drain stopper.
• Disconnect the drainpipe.
• Lift the vanity and remove it from the base cabinet.

Step 3: Remove the Baseboards

Remove the baseboard along the wall. This makes it simpler to get rid of that old cabinet.

Step 4: Remove the P-trap

Remove the P-trap part of the drain.

Step 5: Remove the Shut-Off Valves

Switch off the main water valve and remove all the shut-off valves.

Step 6: Remove the Screws and Cabinet

Remove the screws that have the cupboard in position and remove the bottom cabinet off of the wall.

Step 7: Remove the Light Fixture

Shut off the power at the circuit breaker box. Remove the light bulbs and bulb cover. Unscrew and remove the screws and the housing piece. Cap off all the wires with the use of a crimp. Take out the fixture bracket.

What is a Vessel Sink?

DIY – To put it as simply as possible, vessel sinks are free-standing sends that are mounted directly onto the countertop. It’s also popular to mount them on other furniture or bathroom fixtures. They come in many different shapes and sizes. The depth of the sink can be chosen as well. Nowadays, they can be made with glass, vitreous china, stainless steel, cast iron, marble, even bronze.

DIY Sink Installation (Vessel Sinks)

DIY – Vessel sinks are fairly easy as a do-it-yourself sink project. Follow the steps below for your DIY sink installation project:

Step 1: Line up the Vessel Sink Drain Hole with the Cutout

Make sure the drain hole is aligned with its offset surface, using the cutout hole of the vessel sink as a guide.

Step 2: Apply Putty to Drain Hole

Apply and compress a drop of plumber’s putty about 1/4″ thick around the bottom of the drain hole.

Step 3: Attach a Rubber Gasket

Fasten the rubber gasket, plastic washer and lock nut to the drain. Afterward, fasten the drain stem.

Step 4: Dry-Fit the Pipes and Fittings of the Vessel Sink

Dry-fit the PVC pipes and fittings,as well as the P-trap, making cuts when needed.

Step 5: Apply Primer and Cement

Apply PVC primer and cement on the proper surface areas. Put the drain together, tying it to the vessel sink waste pipe. Hold each connection together for a few minutes so that the chemical result of the primer and cement doesn’t put pressure on the pieces and make them come apart.

Step 6: Drain the Water Lines

Turn off the water supply to the house. Turn on the faucets and let them run until no more water comes out. Putting a couple of towels down to soak up any excess water within the pipes would be a wise.

Step 8: Cut Capped Ends of Pipe

Use a close-quarters pipe cutter to chop the end marks from the water supply pipes. Clutch cutter tight around the pipe then keep rotating it clockwise, around the pipe until the pipe is cut.

Step 9: Install the Shut-Offs

Install the compression shut-off valve, per the manufacturer directions. These fittings have to be very tight. You may use two adjustable wrenches to make sure it’s really secure.