About “I Hate My Bath”

I Hate My Bath is a show for homeowners that adore the homes they’ve purchased. But, for different reasons, they all have major issues with their bathrooms. The series is dedicated to showing these folks great ways to conduct DIY bathroom remodeling projects that won’t break the bank. The affordable DIY bathroom tips include clever redesigns, innovating tools and popular product recommendations. It’s all about creating a new bathroom without having to take out a loan on their homes to do it.

The host of I Hate My Bath, Jeff Devlin, goes inside the homes of actual homeowners to save the day. He recreates an entirely new bathroom in each showcased home, as viewers follow along from beginning to end. His goal is to remodel the bathrooms using innovative ideas that don’t require demolishing or gutting the bathrooms.

Jeff Devlin, Host of “I Hate My Bath”

Devlin is a professional carpenter with over 15 years experience under his belt. DIY TV fans may remember him from the HGTV series Spice Up My Kitchen. Jeff, a licensed contractor, boasts of a passion for repairing things. His past includes the complete renovation of two historic PA farmhouses, one being his own. Jeff provides homeowners who hate their bathroom with hope as he provides them with ways to create the bathrooms of their dreams, ensuring that the DIY bathroom projects are always affordable.

Zen Master Bath

In this episode, Devlin helps Matt and Vickey who completely remodeled their entire suburban house, except for the master bathroom. They were unable to get to the part where they start the beautification part of their DIY master bathroom project. They tried every technique and product they could come up with to clean the bathroom and remove the build up of mold, mildew and grim in the master bath.

Now, with Vickey expecting a baby, they decided that this disgusting bath was not only an eyesore… it was a health hazard. There was no way these new parents could expose their newborn baby to such an unhealthy mess.

So, they decided to call in the big guns… and in came Jeff. Watch the episode to see how Jeff comes in to save the family from the unhealthy conditions that the couple tried so hard to clean up themselves. Not only does Jeff remove the mold and mildew, he turns this master bathroom into an Asian-inspired bath masterpiece of style and class with great bathroom lighting.

About “I Hate My Kitchen”

This show is dedicated to homeowners that love their homes, but think much less about their kitchens. The series shows them affordable ways to cleverly redesign their kitchens using innovative tools and new product choices. The producers of the show are dedicated to helping home renovators with DIY kitchen ideas that don’t cost astronomical amounts.

The host of I Hate My Kitchen, James Young, goes inside the actual kitchens of real homeowners. They tear up the kitchens on the show, allowing viewers to watch as they renovate them using cost-efficient means. This gives homeowners DIY kitchen renovation ideas that don’t require home loans or complete demolition projects.

James Young, Host of “I Hate My Kitchen”

Young is a serious asset to the series as a licensed contractor and licensed electrician. He practices hardcore DIY home improvement methods that have become very popular among the shows viewers. He currently has the successful remodeling of many houses, as well as over 30 kitchens under his belt of experience. His electrician bio also includes high-end residential and commercial do-it-yourself projects. On the DIY Network show, he’s known for showing updating homeowners on the latest popular kitchen remodeling products and designs. His creativity includes finding affordable, yet very innovative ways of remodeling the kitchens of the homes showcased on the series.

Not Enough Kitchen

Spoiler Alert – In a recent episode entitled Not Enough Kitchen, Young helps homeowners Tricia and Rashad with their DIY small kitchen issues. The homeowners had purchased a bungalow built in the 1940s at a great price. Their tiny kitchen was filled with the amenities they had considered priorities during their home search. In time, they realized that the amenities they thought they loved were actually pretty useless appliances. The dishwasher was broken. The oven worked only when and how it wanted to. And, all the other appliances and other kitchen materials were out-of-date and starting to fall apart right before their eyes.

When James started working on the DIY project, it was hard to visualize this tiny, little kitchen ever being anything other than that. But, this DIY kitchen expert has the skills needed to see the potential in projects that seem impossible. This one was no exception. He knocked down a wall, which combined the kitchen with what now became the dining room. This decision made the opened the kitchen up, making it much roomier.

When it came down to upgrading the kitchen cabinets, he was able to make this affordable for the couple by salvaging some of the old ones. After adding upgraded appliances and quartz countertops, the couple was amazed by the DIY project. James was able to renovate their kitchen in such an innovative way that it was as if he had completely demolished it and built a brand new kitchen from scratch.

Step 1: Measure the Attic

Inspect the attic to ensure that there’s sufficient clearance and to determine the best location for the closet structure. The opening for the drop-down needs to be between two ceiling joists. Take accurate measurements to ensure the right location and fit, and then transfer the measurements to the ceiling below. Drill small pilot holes through the ceiling to mark the four corners of the opening. Use a straightedge and pencil to scribe a line between the holes to serve as a guide for cutting. Standard ceiling joists are 24 inches on center, so this cut-out is the full 22 inches between the joists. The length of the cut is 3 feet, in this case it is based on the height of the closet design, the pitch of the roof and support trusses.

Tip: Make sure to get assistance as needed throughout the duration of this project. You may need one or two helpers.

Step 2: Cut the Drywall

The best tool for cutting into drywall is a keyhole saw. Make sure the area above the cut-out is clear of wires, ductwork or other fixtures. Insert the tip of the saw into one of the holes and begin cutting, following the lines as a guide. Go slow and easy with the saw and avoid “forcing” the blade. Once the hole is cut, remove and discard the drywall piece.

Step 3: Create the Closet Box

Build the box framework for the closet using 3/4″ birch plywood. Cut the pieces for the frame using a table saw and secure them together with wood glue and nails, then reinforce the seams with screws. Once the four sides of the box framework are together, install an upper shelf and then add a side piece to enclose one side of the upper compartment. The opposite side of the box is left open as the access side. Once the boxes is complete, prime and paints it and install a standard closet rod for hanging clothes.

Step 4: Construct a Box to House the Closet

Construct a second box, slightly larger than the dimensions of the closet framework, to serve as the enclosure for the closet. The outer box helps guide the closet structure up and down and keeps attic dust off the clothes and other contents. Since this second box will remain in the attic, it can be built out of rougher-grade AC plywood. Like the closet structure, the outer box is cut to maximize the vertical height between the opening and the roof. Secure the enclosure in the ceiling opening by screwing it directly to the joists so that it extends vertically into the attic. Leave the lid of the enclosure off during installation to allow for installing the cable that will raise and lower the closet.

Step 5: Create the Pulley System

Attach the cable to the top of the closet using an eyelet, and pass the cable up through the opening in the ceiling. The cable is threaded through a pulley that’s attached to the outside of the enclosure box’s lid. Plastic runners installed in each corner of the attic enclosure serve to guide the closet smoothly as it’s raised and lowered. The cable used for this project is rated to hold up to 800 pounds. Leave plenty of extra cable length during the installation. It will be cut to length once the installation is complete.

Step 6: Lift the Closet Framework into the Attic

Lifting the closet framework into the attic is a three-person job: two below to lift the closet up to the opening and another in the attic to help pull it into the attic. Once the closets is lifted up and into position inside the enclosure, add temporary supports of scrap lumber, attach to the ceiling with screws, this will hold the box in position while the garage-door system is completed.

Tip: Always make sure to follow proper safety pre-cautions.

Step 7: Attach the Pulleys to the Trusses and Framework

In the attic, pulleys are secured to the roof trusses to hold the cable in place and connect it to the garage-door track. Attach the door opener to the track following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Tip: If you’re not familiar with installation of a garage-door opener, it’s best to leave this part of the installation to a professional. 

Step 8: Remove the Excess Cable

Once the system is installed, trim away the excess cable. When the closet and lift system are complete, the box structure can be lowered into the bedroom to access clothes and raised up to be concealed in the ceiling. The closet is raised and lowered by means of the remote control for the garage-door opener.

Step 1: Turn Off All Power

Plan out the project and have a qualified electrician take a look at the wiring. Make sure no electrical work is needed before building the electrical closet, and check with the electrician to make sure the planned changes do not violate electrical codes. If any wiring or outlets need to be moved for this project, leave the job to a professional electrician. Turn off all electrical power to the home and use a volt meter to make sure the power is off.

Tip: Remember, once all work is done, it is then safe to turn power back on.

Step 2: Install a Stud and a 2×4

Measure out 4″ from the front of the electrical box and install a 2×4 stud in the existing wall. The stud should fit snugly from the floor joist to the ceiling joist. Make sure the stud is flush, next drive long screws at an angle through the stud and into the joists to secure it firmly. The new electrical closet will only extend out to this stud — a big improvement over the old closet’s huge footprint. Use a hammer, drill and masonry screws to attach a pressure-treated 2×4 to the concrete floor. Make sure the 2×4 lines up with the new stud; it will be the base plate for the new door frame.

Step 3: Build a Door Frame

Measure the pre-hung door and build a three-sided door frame from 2x4s. The top of the frame should be the same size as the base plate. Rest the new door frame on the base plate, make sure it’s flush and then secure it to the new wall stud with screws. Also use screws to secure the bottom of the frame to the base plate. 

Tip: It’s especially important to make sure pieces are flush, square and level when building any type of framing, especially a door frame. Miss-aligned framing isn’t as stable, and out-of-plumb doors don’t open and close properly.

Step 4: Cut the OSB Panels

Use a circular saw to cut sheets of oriented strand board (OSB) to fit over the exposed wiring. Use a jigsaw to cut a hole for the electrical meter. Fit the OSB panels in place and secure with screws. Prime and paint as desired. Sand and paint the fuse box covers and reinstall.

Safety Alert: Make sure to follow the electrician’s instructions on whether wiring and other equipment can be covered with OSB. Remember, it’s important to have easy access to fuse and breaker boxes.

Step 5: Reattach Paneling

Use nails to reattach paneling as needed, and trimming to fit the new wall profile. If drywall was removed, replace it with new drywall. Attach the drywall with screws, and then apply drywall compound and drywall tape to the joints. Let dry and sand before painting. Position the pre-hung door in the frame and adjust for plumb and level. Slip wood shims into the gaps between the door and frame to bring it into alignment; add shims to fill gaps once the door is plumb and level. Use nails to attach the door to the frame, driving nails through shims to secure them. Install the door knob last.

Step 1: Create a Scale Drawing

Create a scale drawing of the piece, and use that drawing as a guide when cutting the lumber. First think of the size that you would like your closet to be, something not too large, but also something not too small. You need to make a rough drawing of it. Adding in lengths and widths, just to get an idea of what the measurements will be.

Tip: Make sure to have assistance throughout this project, this is not just a one man job.

Step 2: Cutting the Lumber – Bottom Frame and Walls

Referring back to your drawing and the measurements, use a miter saw to cut the lumber for the closet frame. Measure the space for the doors and build two frames from 2×4 lumbers to fit side by side in that space. Use a reciprocating saw to cut out the bottom of the frame where the door will go. Always be careful and use proper safety measures!

Tip: If the garage floor is concrete and comes in contact with the ground, use pressure-treated lumber for the bottom plate. This will help prevent water damage from moisture that comes up through the concrete. Wood that doesn’t come in contact with the concrete doesn’t need to be pressure-treated. 

Step 3: Securing and Laying Out the Frame

The framing for the closet consists of a rectangular bottom plate attached to the concrete floor, and a matching top plate attached to the ceiling joists and studs. Use concrete nails to secure the bottom of the wall frame to the concrete floor. Secure it to the block wall of the garage with anchors. Once you have all the lumber cut the next step is to lay out the framing (Image 1). Use 2×4 studs, and leave a large gap between the studs in one wall to accommodate a door (Image 2). Install the other wall frames in the same manner, keeping the flush side of the frame to the outside. In addition to securing the frames to the floor and walls, also nail them to each other at the corners. Remember to have an assistant helping you, as it would be hard to do this project alone.

Tip: When driving anchors into the wall, always go into the center of the blocks. The joints may not provide enough support

Step 4: Assemble the Walls

Lay out the pieces for one wall of the closet and assemble it using a nail hammer or gun. Lie out and assemble the remaining walls of the closet. Position the first wall, making sure to keep the pressure-treated lumber on the sides that come in contact with the concrete. The wall should fit snugly between the ceiling joists and the floor. Use a hammer to tap it into position. Making sure to line up and keep the boards straight.

Tip: Lumber varies in thickness, so it’s important to always keep one side flush. The flush side of each “wall” of the frame will face toward the outside when the closet is assembled to give a flat surface for the siding.

Step 5: Prepare and Attach the T-111 Siding

Use an orbital sander to prepare the siding for installation. Cut the T-111 siding to fit the exterior of the closet. Use a nail hammer or gun to attach it around the exterior of the closet and door frames.

Step 6: Attach the Doors

Install hinges on the doors with screws and a screwdriver. To attach the doors more easily, prop them up on wood blocks while screwing the hinges into the wall frame. Prime and paint the piece to match the garage walls.

Tip: Remember that the rounded barrel of the hinge goes on the outside for a door that opens outward. 

Step: 1 Choose Design and Order the System

Before starting the project, you need to choose the design for the closet. The easiest way to do that is think of each and every wall as a reach-in closet. First, you will want to measure each wall separately and plan the storage design one wall at a time. If you are the only one using the closest, then it may be a good idea to put the hanging wardrobe wards the sides of the closest, therefore; making the corners into shelves.

• But if you and your partner are sharing the closet, its best to design one wall for the each of you. If your closest is big enough, you may think about adding a tower in the middle of the two sections.
• Order the closet kit in advance, most of them is available at home stores and can be purchased the day you start the project. All supplies that are needed will be included in the kit. This type of planning is the first crucial step towards having a great closet.

Step 2: Prep the Closet

• Remove clothes and racks.
• Patch any holes with spackle.
• Sand the walls lightly and paint what color you please.

After the walls are dried and painted, mark the walls were the track will be placed. The track is the backbone of the entire project, and the placement is all determined by the desired design that you want. Next, mark where the studs are going to go. Remember the track MUST be installed into the studs.

Step 3: Installing the Track

The track can be installed in 4 easy steps.

1. Drill a ½” hole on both sides of the panel.
2. Slide the metal channel through the hole and pull it so it is flat on the wall.
3. Slide the plastic cap along the straps until the flange is flushed with the wall
4. Push side to side on the straps until they snap off the wall

*Toggles may be needed, if some panels are placed in-between studs.

Helpful tip: Tracks come in 4’ and 8’. If the closet is longer than 8’, it is best to cut the track back to the nearest stud, then start a new track from that point on. Remember, always to install the track into the studs.

Step 4: Assemble the Tower

This is the easiest step of them all. All you have to do is screw the tower to the back of the wall.

Helpful tip: When installing the tower, it is important to us a cleat, besides the track. This helps the tower from swaying side to side.

• Hang the organizer on the track.
• Screw the cleat into the wall.

Step 5: Add Rods and Adjustable Shelves

• You can use shelf pins to add more shelves, continue adding panels. When adding more fixed shelves to the top of the panel, secure all of them on the outside of the panel, making sure they are extra sturdy.

• Use rod ends to hang the wardrobe rods.
• Screw in all the shelves on the outside, using corner brackets to support the corner shelves.

Step 6: Assemble and Attach the Drawers

• To build draws, run a strip of glue down the miters. Then put a drop in each hole, and put the bottom of the drawer in place.
• Fold the drawer into correct position and use a rubber mallet to gently tap it into place.
• Make sure it is in the correct position then screw the knob onto the drawer face.
• Attack face to the drawer, screw into place, and attach the glides.
• Attach the glides on panel at the height you want the drawers.
• Add accessories as you please.

Step 7: Organize a Reach-in Closet

Even small reach-in closets have tons of storage too. All you have to do is measure the space then take inventory and come up with a design.

Helpful tip: A small closet with bi-fold doors, place the drawers toward the center, while having the storage to the rite.

• If there is plenty of rack space, but more folding space is needed for clothes or toys, then put a tower with shelves, drawers, and baskets in the center. Then you can hang your clothes on each side of the tower, which will double your storage space.

Step 1: Choose the Design and Order the System

The first thing to do is decide on a design for the closet. Think of each wall as a reach-in closet. Measure each wall separately and plan the storage one wall at a time, take personal needs into account. If one person is using the closet, it’s a good idea to put the hanging wardrobe rods on the left and right sides of the closet and turn the corner with shelves — this makes a great use of the corner space.

• When two people are sharing a master closet, it works well to lay out the design with one wall for each person. If there is enough space, think about adding a tower between the hanging sections on each side. The towers hold long vertical clothes, shelves, drawers and baskets. Then the back wall can be shared space. This type of planning is a critical first step toward a great closet. Figure out what is needed as well as desired. Take an inventory of closet items. A little pre-planning will save time and money.

• Order the closet system in advance. Closet systems are also available at home stores and can be purchased the day you plan to do the project. All the supplies needed come with the kit.

Step 2: Prep the Closet

• Remove all the clothes and take out all the racks.

• Patch all the holes with spackle. Lightly sand the walls and then paint them.

• Mark the walls where the track will be placed. The track is the backbone of the design and supports the whole system. The placement is determined by the desired design. Mark the studs in order to secure the track properly — the track must be installed into the studs.

Step 3: Install the Track

If some panels are placed in-between studs, toggles will need to be installed. Drill a 1/2″ hole on both sides of panel location. Slide the metal channel through the hole and pull it so it is flat behind the wall. Slide the plastic cap along the straps until the flange is flush with the wall. Push side to side to snap off the straps at the wall.

• Expert Tip: The tracks come in 4′ and 8′ lengths. If the closet is more than 8′, it may be necessary to cut the track back to the nearest stud and then start the new track beyond that. It’s very important to install the track into the studs.

• The track must end on a stud, if it is too long, cut the track with a hacksaw. Drill the track in place around the perimeter of the closet.

Step 4: Assemble the Tower

Assemble the tower for the back wall by screwing it together.

• Expert Tip: When installing a tower section, it is also important to use a cleat, besides just the track. This will keep the unit from moving side to side. The cleat can be mounted under any of the fixed shelves and will give the unit extra support.

• Hang the organizer on the track. Screw the attached cleat into the wall.

Step 5: Add Rods and Adjustable Shelves

• Use shelf pins to add more adjustable shelves, and continue adding panels, when adding fixed shelves to the top of the panel, secure them on the outside of the panel, making them extra sturdy.

• Use rod ends to hang the wardrobe rods.

• Screw in all the shelves on the outside, use corner brackets to support the corner shelves.

Step 6: Assemble and Attach the Drawers

To build the drawers, run a strip of glue down the miters. Put a drop in each hole and put the bottom of the drawer in place.

• Fold the drawer into position and use a rubber mallet to tap it into place.

• Make sure it is square and screw the knob onto the drawer face.

• Attach the face to the drawer, screw it into place, and attach glides.

• Attach glides on the panel at the height where you want the drawers.

• Add accessories.

Step 7: Organize a Reach-In Closet

Small reach-in closets can have more storage too. Measure the space and then take inventory and come up with a design.

Expert Tip: In a small closet with bifold doors, place drawers toward the center and hanging storage to the right.

• If there is plenty of hanging space, but more folding space is needed for clothes and toys, put a tower in the center that has shelves, drawers and baskets. Place the hanging clothes on the side. These will double the storage space in the closet.

• Note: Adjustable systems are especially practical for children’s closets.

Step 1: Set the Pavers

The first step in making a path is to lay out square concrete pavers in the design you’ve chosen. A straight path works fine, but a curved or offset path gives the optical illusion of more space in a small garden. To lock the steppingstones in place, use a rubber mallet to tap them down and a level to get the right height. If you’re making a casual garden, the stones don’t have to be perfect, but they do need to be level enough that you can walk easily across them.

Step 2: Space the Pavers

Pour sand under the stones to raise or lower the height of each, then use a tape measure to space them evenly. For this project you could use fieldstones or bricks to create the same effect; wood timbers would work as well if you placed them closer together.

Step 3: Prepare the Pots

To guide visitors into your new herb garden, and also to give the area more height, add some tall pots (Image 1). Pots are a great way to add interest because they enhance the design — and they’re easy to move around. To prepare the pots for the plants, add a few inches of gravel (Image 2); this keeps the holes from getting clogged and helps water run off the roots and out the bottom of the pot.

Step 4: Add Soil to the Pots

Cut a piece of landscape fabric to fit over the gravel. This keeps the soil at the top of the pot where it belongs and helps keep it from running out the bottom of the pot and making a mess or stain on your deck or patio. Pots need good drainage, as standing water will cause root rot and bacterial infections. It’s better to have too much drainage than not enough. Once you have the bottom of the pot ready, add a good-quality potting soil to the top. Good soil is critical because you’re essentially trapping the plants in this container with no other place to get nutrients. Never reuse potting soil: buy a fresh bag each time you make a pot. This will ensure that your plants get off to a healthy start.

Step 5: Add the Fertilizer

Fill the pots half full with soil. Then add 3 tablespoons of slow-release fertilizer and water-saver crystals and stir them into the top layer of soil. These small crystals soak in water like a sponge and swell to several times their size. Then they release the water back into the soil when it dries out. With the plants in their new pots, add more potting soil to fill in the gaps. Then move them into place and watered with a light dose of liquid fertilizer, which will give them an immediate dose of nutrients to help them adjust to their new container.

Potted plants dry out very quickly, so be sure to check them daily during hot or dry weather. Water the pot thoroughly, until the water runs out the bottom, to make sure you’ve soaked all layers of the soil. Mint tip: Since mints grow with such wild abandon, put them in pots to protect the rest of your garden. Otherwise they will take over more delicate plants and run into areas where you do not want them to go.

Step 1: Selecting Your Pot

• For best results, one of the most commonly used type of pot is the terra-cotta because of its natural wicking capability. Let your imagination run wild, decorate it and be creative.
• Make sure that your container has adequate drainage. The most popular containers are made from wood, cement, and terra-cotta.
• A thing to remember is that size does not matter. The container must have enough room for the plant or plants that you will be growing.

Step 2: Preparing Pot

• In the bottom of each pot, place a small piece of terra cotta over the drain hole to prevent gravel from spilling out.
• Add a few inches of gravel to the bottom of the pot.
• On top of the gravel lay a piece of landscape fabric to keep the potting soil from mixing with the gravel. This will also keep the herb roots from growing out of the bottom of the pot.

Tip: Make sure that there is adequate drainage within the bottom of your pot, so that it does not retain too much water.

Step 3: Filling the Pot

• High-quality potting soil is important for all container plants. Adding a good high-quality soil is important for the growth and nutrients that your plant or plants will retain.
• Start with an unopened bag of potting soil to ensure that it’s free of diseases or pests. It’s a good idea to look for potting soils that contain water-retaining crystals, which help maintain a consistent level of moisture.
• Because potted plants dry out quicker, you need to pay closer attention to the nutrients your plants are getting. Most potted plants don’t require much fertilizer. It’s still good to use a good all-natural organic fertilizer, which can be mixed with the potting soil before planting the plant in the pot.

Tip: Apply very little fertilizer, little to none. Using too much will cause large plants, along with the flavor being greatly reduced.

Step 4: Choosing Tomato Plant

• Growing a full sized tomato plant in a pot is suitable for larger plants, a strong stake, and lots of water. There are many different varieties of tomatoes, but why not try your favorite to grow in a pot.
• For a smaller sized tomato, try out the dwarf cherry tomatoes, and there are dozens to choose from. Be creative and try planting a few different varieties of your favorite tomatoes.

Step 5: Pot Watering

Potted plants need a little more attention when it comes to keeping them moist. Because the soil can dry out quicker, if room temperatures are high then this will cause the potted soil to dry more quickly. Keep a close eye on the water level in a potted plant, but be careful not to over water them as well.

A fun way to keep moisture is by taking 20-ounce plastic bottle, make a few holes in the bottom of it, fill it with water, screw on the cap tightly, and place in the pot. A good way of checking the moisture of the soil is by poking your finger in the soil, and if it feels moist, it’s ok. If it feels dry, start watering. Make sure to check the water requirements for the types of herbs you are planting. Be creative and come up with your own irrigation system.

Step 6: Adequate Sun and Light

The more light that your tomato plant receives produces more flavorful tomatoes. Most potted plants require about four to six hours of sun per day. Depending if you are growing your potted tomatoes indoors or outdoors, placing your plants indoor on a south facing windowsill will give enough light.

If light supplement is needed, in some cases, then using a fluorescent lamp will help to give the additional light that is needed. When selecting what types of plants to use for potting, consider the amount of light that they need for adequate growth.

Tip: To make sure that your potted plants are getting enough light, if indoors, turn the pot a couple of times per week to make sure that all of the plants are getting sufficient light. Also moving the pot from one location to another where sunlight is more favorable during the different seasons.

Step 1: Purchase Trees

There are three basic types of plums: European, Japanese and American. Plum trees are adaptable to a wide range of climates, so there is likely a variety for nearly every garden. Check with your local nursery to find out which varieties are best for your particular area. Popular varieties include Methley, Ruby and Sweet Morris.

Tip: For a decent crop of fruit, some varieties of plums need to be cross-pollinated with a compatible variety. At least two trees should be planted within 50′ to 100′ for best pollination.

Step 2: Prepare Site

Plums do best with at least six to eight hours of full sun a day. They also prefer well-drained soil, so work a thick layer of organic soil conditioner into the top 10″ of the planting site. Plums trees do better if positioned in full sun although some shade in the morning or afternoon will be good.

Step 3: Planting Your Tree

Best time to plant your plum tree is from late Autumn to early Spring, the best time being in October, when the soil still has some of the summer warmth. Many plums are sold as bare-root trees.

• Shake off any material clinging to the roots and soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or two before planting.
• Dig a hole the same depth as the roots and at least as wide as the roots when fanned out, approximately 2ft deep by 4ft wide. Also use as much organic material as possible.
• Place the tree in the hole and fan out the roots. Backfill with soil until the hole is three-quarters full. Water well to settle the soil.
• Finish filling the hole and water again. Add mulch around the trees.

Tip: Plums have three main needs, warmth (especially important at pollination time), light and moisture.

Step 4: Water, Feed and Prune

In the first year or two after being planted, plum trees require regular watering. In early spring, and again in midsummer, feed trees with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Maintain a weed- and grass-free zone of about 3′ in diameter around the base of a tree. Prune any suckers that sprout from the base of the tree and any water sprouts that shoot up from branches.

Tip: Make sure that the plum tree is planted in an area where the soil is unlikely to dry out and is not a water-logged area. Also needs to be planted away from other trees which will deprive them of the moisture they need.

Step 5: Protect From Late Frost

Plum blossoms must be protected from spring frost damage, which can wipe out a year’s crop. If frost is predicted after fruit-bud set; place lightweight fabric over the tree to form a tent. Add a small heat source such as a light bulb on an extension cord.

Step 6: Thin Fruit

Some plum trees must be thinned in order to produce a decent crop of fruit and to prevent branches from breaking due to excessive weight.

• When the fruits are about the size of a penny, remove enough so that no two plums are closer than 5″. Remove the smallest fruit and keep the larger ones.
• The best time to thin a tree is from early April to mid-May. Thinning a fruit tree too early can result in the pits splitting, and thinning too late reduces the size of the fruit.
• There are two ways to thin fruit by hand or by pole. Using your hands is more accurate, but is also much slower than the pole method.

Step 7: Harvest Fruit

All plums start out green but ripen to any number of colors. It’s important to know what the fruit’s final color should be so you know when to harvest. As a general rule, a plum is ripe when the flesh begins to soften beneath gentle pressure.